Visiting Costa Rica during the green 'rainy' season


By Stephanie Citron
For The Baltimore Sun on July 27, 2015
Original source

Rainy season in Costa Rica

After a morning spent dodging crocodiles on a safari down the Corobici River, you can catch an afternoon nap on the beach, perhaps beneath a snoozing sloth hanging from a tree. Your slumber is accompanied alternatively by crashing ocean waves and screeching monkeys.

Staying a week in Costa Rica provides opportunities for closeup encounters with exotic wildlife, canopy tours across forests and treks around volcanoes, all in a spectacular setting encompassing one of the world's most diverse ecosystems.

How far do you have to travel to find this paradise? About five hours via a nonstop flight from Baltimore.

Tiny Costa Rica, smaller than the state of West Virginia, is abundant in spectacular natural landscapes and exotic biodiversity. An increasingly popular destination for tourists, the country offers more than 900 miles of picturesque coastline with lush rain forests, mountain lakes and jungles thriving with red-eye tree frogs, macaws, anteaters, jaguars and more.

While Costa Ricans, known locally as "ticos," might not be materially prosperous, they live rich lives. The country's signature catch phrase, "pura vida" — pure life — says it all. In 1948, the country disassembled its military and instead poured the money into education, health care and environmental protection. Today, it boasts a 93 percent literacy rate with a universal health care system that is said to be the best in Latin America. Costa Rica now ranks among the top nations in the world for life expectancy.

The country borders the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. While the bodies of water are just about 160 miles apart, their cultural vibe and geographic hallmarks are as dissimilar as the east and west coasts of the United States.

High season in Costa Rica is December through April, when tourists are assured of perpetual sunshine. But true adventurers who opt to visit during the "green season" are rewarded with the most magnificent flora and fauna, and smaller crowds. Lodging rates drop substantially, from 30 percent to 50 percent off high-season rates.

Surprising to many, May through early September is not a washout. Visitors enjoy luminous mornings and refreshing afternoon rain lasting only minutes, followed by clear skies before dinnertime. The weather yields eye-popping shades of green as well as plentiful views of the wildlife that come out in droves, invigorated by newly replenished watering holes.

The daily rains also create peak surfing conditions, rushing rafting rapids and waterfalls. Beyond those adventures, there is plenty to see and do. Here are some of the highlights.

San Jose


Almost immediately upon landing at Juan Santamaria International Airport in San Jose, the majority of travelers hightail out to the beaches on the Pacific Coast or up north to the highlands for volcano tours. While not a picturesque city, San Jose, Costa Rica's capital, is definitely worth a look.

Amid the profusion of concrete structures, downtown has museums, preserved Spanish colonial architecture and bustling markets selling local provisions and crafts.

Begin at the Plaza de la Cultura and tour the neoclassical National Theater. Next, check out the impressive pre-Columbian gold collection at the Central Bank Museum. Nearby, the Jade Museum is reputed to possess the largest collection of jade in the Americas. The National Museum of Costa Rica has an enchanting butterfly garden and a collection of historical and archeological artifacts dating to pre-Columbian times. For lunch, Central Market is a great spot to sample local fare like casado, a platter including a tortilla, meat, rice, black beans, plantains and salad.

Arenal volcano


Four hours north of San Jose, Arenal has been Costa Rica's most active volcano for more than 40 years. While there hasn't been a significant eruption since 2010, nearly a half-century of eruptions has left behind a remarkable geological treasure: natural trails formed by lava tubes amid a forest filled with wildlife, including hundreds of species of birds. The surrounding region offers lake craters, geothermal hot springs, whitewater rafting, horseback riding, and canopy and hanging bridge excursions.

Pacific coast


Guanacaste: The Costa Rica most American tourists envision — and flock to — is found in Guanacaste, in the country's northern sector along the Pacific Ocean, with its forest-fringed beaches fronting a turquoise sea. Beyond the sand is a wonderland of jungle, dramatic cliffs, wildlife and geological treasures waiting to be explored. Accordingly, this area offers the country's largest selection of accommodations, restaurants, and organized tours and activities. Visitors embark on rain forest treks across hanging bridges and soar across zip lines over the tallest trees in a high-altitude cloud forest. The nearby Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, home to hundreds of species of mammals, amphibians, reptiles and birds, offers thousands of acres with trails.

Nicoya Peninsula: Just south is the Nicoya Peninsula where the vibe is decidedly more Zen. in a designated Blue Zone, a region where populations have been discovered to live remarkably longer, healthier lives, natives and resident surf bums quench their thirst with calcium- and magnesium-rich water and eat very little processed food. Until recently, the profusion of unpaved roads without bridges deterred the masses, thus protecting its natural beauty. But explorers are becoming increasingly aware of its raw landscape, unencumbered wildlife and sleepy villages with bohemian cafes.

Manuel Antonio State Park: The central Pacific region is home to Manuel Antonio State Park, one of the Costa Rica's top eco-tourism destinations. Home to hundreds of species of wildlife, this rain forest microclimate is the perfect habitat for the likes of scarlet macaws, brown boobies, white-faced monkeys and toed anteaters. The central coast is also home to Playa de Jaco, popular because it is the closest beach to San Jose, therefore crowded and more commercial. For scenic solitude, check out Playa Baru, nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the spectacular 800-acre Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge, or take a boat trip 12 miles across the crystal blue water to the biological reserve on the pre-Columbian-era Cano Island. There's also the Rainmaker Aerial Walkway, the first to be built in Central America, peaking to a staggering 20 stories above the jungle floor between its tree-to-tree platforms.

Zona Sur: For the truly rugged adventurer, Osa Peninsula and Golfo Dulce in the southern region, known as Zona Sur, on Costa Rica's southwestern tip, is the country's most primitive and undeveloped terrain. Just getting here is difficult; many of the roads are little more than rutted, unpaved byways, with unpredictable river crossings and long-forgotten, overgrown paths. A bastion of tropical wilderness bordered by a pristine, craggy coastline, the region is largely made up of protected reserves and parks, including Corcovado National Park, Costa Rica's largest park and home to nearly 10 percent of all mammals found in the Americas. Given just a smattering of overnight accommodations, nature lodges are the best choice since they can organize guides for jungle treks, climbing expeditions, kayak tours and snorkeling trips.

Caribbean coast


While the majority of Costa Rica's residents are Spanish-speaking Latin Americans, many of the people along its Caribbean coastline descend from Afro-Caribbean origins and indigenous tribes. In addition to Spanish, the main language here is Creole patois.

Possessing as many natural wonders as the Pacific side, this coast tends to be less expensive. Known as the "wetter" side — September and October are the driest months here — residents say the daily rain produces a healthy, lush, and vibrant flora. As a result, the region is void of large-scale resort chains and harbors less-touristy fanfare. Instead, visitors enjoy snorkeling in the blue-green ocean, deep-sea fishing and local village life. Even the food differs here. Rather than traditional rice and beans, Creole influence dominates local fare like rondon, a spicy gumbo-style dish with vegetables and fish simmered in coconut milk and spices.

Ranked among the top surfing destinations in the world, the southern town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca attracts artists, surfers, and New Agers with its laid-back seaside town and reggae and calypso nightspots.

The middle coast is largely rustic, with small towns and villages, and desolate beaches. Cahuita is a worthwhile stop to check out its black sand beach and Sloth Sanctuary. The town is especially noted for its authentic Afro-Caribbean cuisine and reasonably priced lodging.

Limon, along the northern Caribbean sector, is a lively port city, renowned for its nesting turtles. Its most popular destination, Tortuguero National Park , protects a range of wildlife including caimans, jaguars, manatees and the nesting sites for the leatherback, loggerhead, hawksbill and green sea turtles. Like much of the rest of the region, the sanctuary doesn't offer organized activities beyond simply viewing these magnificent creatures in their authentic habitats. Nearby, don't miss the Jaguar Rescue Center, which also works to heal birds, monkeys and reptiles.

 

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